The two servos are installed in a removable tray. The tray is screwed to a fitting that is glued into the bottom of the hull.
The fitting is made out of two strips of plastic that are glued one on top of another.
Two blind nuts are glued into the fitting.
The servo tray is made out of these two plastic parts that are glued together one inside of the other.
The finished servo tray. Notice all of the dust? I had to sand just about the the heck out of the inside hole to get standard servos to fit. I ended up sanding away about one half of the total thickness of the side walls.
I was finally able to get these standard size servos to fit.
One bit of warning here, if you have the optional depth controller, it won't work correctly with the standard Futaba servo because it requires a servo that rotates in the opposite direction.
The depth controller is suppose to set the dive plane to the up position when the boat goes deeper the 1.5 meters however with a Futaba servo it set it to a full dive position. The servo plugs directly into the depth controller module so reversing the servo direction on the transmitter has no affect on the problem.
I found that the Hitec HS-300 rotates the correct way for use with the depth controller.
Here are the supplied ballast lead strips.
Two of the ballast stripes are installed on the side walls just forward of the gear box.
The servo tray hold down is glued into the bottom of the hull. My kit was missing the plastic screws so I substituted these metal ones.
It's not easy getting the servo tray into the hull but it does fit. Make sure that the servo screws lie below the side metal rails. You will probable have to shorten the mounting screws.
This shot shows the relative amount of space between the gears and the servo tray.
