The hatch is made out of a solid piece of plastic. It's a pretty sturdy piece. If you are running the light kit then you need to drill a couple holes for the wires.
The hatch is held down by a couple of screws that attach to these supports. A blind nut is glued to the bottom. The top get a radius so that the screws are guided to the nut.
Time for some paint!
A pair of nuts are glued to the bottom of the hatch. These nuts aren't for attaching the hatch to the hull, they are access holes to get to the screws that do the actual attachment. These access holes are sealed with some cheese head screws that have o-rings under the heads.
These nuts where missing from my kit so I got some replacements from the magic bolt bucket.
The hatch attachment brackets fit into the metal rails glued to the hull. To keep them in place, a small piece of wood is wedged under the brackets. It's a tight squeeze to get the wood in there but it does loosen up the more you work with it.
You can see that clearance is tight between the dive plane servo arm and the bracket. I ended up cutting down the servo arm all the way down to the first hole. Even with this short of an arm, there still was plenty of up and down travel.
I ended up having to bend the rudder linkage lower to clear the bracket. Clearance is tight but there is no rubbing.
A flood chamber is built into the hatch. The flood chamber covers the large slots in the side of the hatch.
The antenna is glued into the rear of the boat. It's attached to a removable plug so you can remove the receive from the boat.
