| Water Cooling: I added water cooling to the ESC (electronic speed control) and the motor can. I used 5/32 aluminum tubing for both. For the speed controller, I simply drilled a hole though the heat sink and inserted a short piece of aluminum tubing. For the motor, I wrapped a coil of tubing around it. Everything is connected by silicon tubing. |  |
| I purchased a water pickup for a Traxxas Nitro Vee and attached it to the bulkhead as shown. Two short pieces of 3/16 brass tubing are glued though the bulkhead for the intake and exhaust of water. The water cooling is very effective. I use 3000 mah packs that give a nice long run time and when I bring the boat back, the motor and speed controller are just warm, not hot. |  |
| Metal Prop: I wanted to change the plastic prop for a high performance metal one. I bought a prop conversion kit from FunRCBoats. It included an octura shaft, prop, drive dog and prop nut. |  |
| The original shaft is simply to remove by loosing the allen screw on the universal joint |  |
| I reused both thrust washer from the original Blast setup and placed them right in front and behind the strut. The prop shaft in the kit should have been the same size as the original but it looks like my particular kit was messed up. Since I was impatient and did not want to return the shaft for another one, I cut it to length using a dremel with a cutoff wheel. The shaft is very hard and will not cut easily with a normal hack saw. |  |
| With the shaft cut to length, I was able to get it assembled. The prop size is a x430 which is about the same size as the stock one. |  |
| Driveline: The driveline of the Blast leaves a lot to be desired in the efficiency department. The motor is connected to the drive shaft via a large plastic u-joint that tend to wobble at speed. |  |
| I plan on replacing the original U-joint with a smaller duel ended u-joint from Vac-U-Boat. This will get rid of the wobble. |  |
| The drive shaft and motor is held in place with a large heavy plastic tray. I plan on replacing the whole tray with some small pieces of plywoood. |  |
| The drive shaft tube can be removed by pulling out the brass oil filler hole. Once that has been removed, the tube can be slid ou the back. |  |
| I shortened the tube by cutting it right behind the oil filler hole. I shortened the drive shaft by the same amount. The drive shaft should be shortened on he side that goes to the motor. After it is shortened, take a file to the end of it to create a flat side. |  |
| Here is my revised driveline layout. The motor plate and the drive shaft support are glued in place using Stabilit Express adhesive. The drive shaft height was set to the stock height by making sure the top of the drive shaft tube was just under the edges of the tray mounts. |  |
| I glued the servo to the side of the hull using some silicon adhesive. The received is held in place with some double sided tape, opposite of the steering servo. The speed controller is attached with velco to a small piece of plywood glued to the hull. |  |
| I notched the servo plywood mount so that I can access the screw on the coupler so that I could remove the drive line for servicing. |  |
Decals: The boat comes with a number of sticker to dress up the boat. The decals need to be trimmed closely to look their best. | 
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With all of the decals in place, the boat looks pretty good. | 
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